Cotoneasters make useful garden shrubs, ground-cover plants and small trees, with most of them growing well in sun and partial shade. They bear a long season of interest, thanks to their prolific summer flowers followed by deep-red berries, which remain on the plant from autumn through winter. Many species have beautiful autumn foliage.
Cotoneasters are wildlife friendly: their flowers are a magnet for bees and the berries are eaten by birds.
How to grow cotoneasters
Most cotoneasters thrive in moist but free-draining soil in full sun or partial shade. Some require pruning after fruiting. Mulch annually with well-rotted manure, compost or leaf mould.
Some cotoneasters are listed as invasive in Schedule 9 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act in England and Wales. Take care when growing them, especially if you live near a waterway or in a rural area. We list them below and recommend considering alternatives to reduce the risk of these varieties spreading into wild areas.
Growing cotoneasters: jump links
- Planting cotoneaster
- Caring for cotoneaster
- Propagating cotoneaster
- Growing cotoneaster: problem solving
- Best cotoneasters to grow
Planting cotoneaster
Cotoneasters range from border shrubs or small trees to wall shrubs, with some even used as ground cover to suppress weeds. Choose your cotoneaster variety carefully, depending on your needs. If growing border shrubs or cotoneaster tree, you may want to plant at the back of a border or as a feature in its own right, making the most of its winter berries.
Make sure you plant your cotoneaster where you have a good view of its winter berries, perhaps from a kitchen window or near your front door. Wall shrubs, such as Cotoneaster horizontalis, should be planted against a wall where you can train it to ‘climb’. Ground-cover cotoneasters should be planted towards the front of a border or a bank, where you want to suppress weeds.
Some cotoneasters are listed in Schedule 9 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act in England and Wales. We recommend growing these only if you live in a very urban area, otherwise, you should consider an alternative.
How to plant cotoneaster
Cotoneasters thrive in moist but free-draining soil, in full sun to partial shade. The best time to plant a cotoneaster is in autumn, when the soil is still warm from summer but moist enough for the roots to establish before winter sets in.
Incorporate organic matter such as well-rotted manure or garden compost into the soil. Plant the rootball at the same depth it was in the pot, then firm with your feet and water well.
How to care for cotoneaster
Cotoneaster is fairly low maintenance. Water it well in its first year.
Pruning cotoneaster
Regular pruning of cotoneaster shrubs helps keep growth dense, with plenty of flowers and berries. Simply prune and reshape evergreen cotoneaster varieties in early spring, and deciduous cotoneasters a bit later on, just before spring growth restarts.
Cotoneasters grown as small trees will need little pruning, except to shape the canopy or remove diseased, crossing branches.
How to propagate cotoneaster
Take softwood cuttings of deciduous cotoneasters or semi-ripe cuttings of evergreen cotoneaster varieties. Use rooting hormone to increase your chances of success.
Cotoneaster problems
Cotoneasters are relatively trouble free, but they can be susceptible to the fungal disease fire blight. Sadly, there’s nothing you can do in this situation as it tends to be fatal.
Aphids and other insect pests are rarely a problem, and provide a good source of food for birds.
Cotoneaster varieties to grow
Cotoneaster amoenus
Beautiful cotoneaster is a densely branched evergreen shrub, with arching stems and a low-growing habit. Its small, dark-green leaves are covered in fine hairs when young, giving them a silvery sheen.
White summer flowers are followed by red berries that last well into winter. Native to south-east China, the cotoneaster is hardy in all but the coldest British winters. Best grown on its own as a shrub.
Height x Spread: 1.5m x 1.5m
Cotoneaster rhytidophyllus
Cotoneaster rhytidophyllus is an evergreen cotoneaster, bearing long, pointed leaves with downy felting underneath, on arching stems. In late-spring to summer it bears clusters of white flowers, followed in autumn by orange fruit that ages to red. Hardy throughout most of the British Isles, it’s best grown as a shrub or small tree.
H x S: 2m x 2m
Cotoneaster conspicuus
Tibetan cotoneaster is a low-growing, evergreen shrub suitable for growing en masse beneath trees or in hard-to-grow areas – you can even plant it as a cotoneaster hedge. It has small, dark green, glossy oval leaves. In summer masses of tiny, white star-shaped flowers are followed by large, orange-red round berries.
H x S: 1.5m x 2m
Cotoneaster frigidus ‘Cornubia’
Cotoneaster frigidus ‘Cornubia’ is one of the largest cotoneasters available, often forming an enormous bushy shrub but it can also be trained into a standard tree. It bears masses of dense clusters of white flowers in summer, followed by large, vivid-red berries in autumn and throughout winter. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it its prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM).
H x S: 6m x 4.5m
Cotoneaster horizontalis
Cotoneaster horizontalis is typically grown against a wall or fence, due to the characteristic herringbone pattern of its stems. It grows well in shade, although it flowers and fruits much better in full sun.
Wall spray cotoneaster is listed as invasive in Schedule 9 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act in England and Wales. Take care when growing it, especially if you live near a waterway or in a rural area, or consider another cotoneaster as an alternative.
H x S: 1m x 2m
Frequently asked questions
Why have my cotoneaster leaves turned red-brown and the plant suddenly died?
If the leaves on your cotoneaster turn red-brown in the summer and your plant subsequently dies, it’s possible it had fireblight. This bacterial disease affects some plants in the rose family, especially those that produce ‘pome’ fruits, such as apples and pears, and ornamental trees and shrubs like pyracantha and cotoneaster. It causes leaves to turn red-brown as if burnt by fire, and then to shrivel and die. Stems die back, cankers appear on branches and, sometimes, the whole plant dies. There’s no chemical control for fireblight. Instead, prune infected stems back to healthy wood as soon as you notice problems to avoid the bacteria spreading.
Can I move my cotoneaster?
Cotoneaster plants don’t generally transplant well. Young plants have more chance of surviving a move than older ones, so it might be worth trying to transplant a cotoneaster that is under five years old in the dormant season, between October and March, when the soil is not frozen or waterlogged. If your cotoneaster is older and has outgrown its space, it might be better to give it a hard prune rather than moving it.
If you need to move a large shrub, preparation is key. During the dormant season a year before moving your shrub, dig a 30cm-wide trench around it, following the branch spread, and fill with sharp sand. Then prune lightly to remove old wood. Water thoroughly the day before moving and prepare the new planting hole. Dig up your plant with as much of the rootball as possible. Replant to the same depth and firm soil. Water and mulch well, and keep well-watered in dry periods for the first year. Feed in spring when your shrub begins to put on new growth.
from BBC Gardeners World Magazine https://ift.tt/ht4Nfys
